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Landscaping ideas for front of house: 10 that hold up

Ten front of house landscaping ideas, each with a picture, a rough cost, the conditions it needs and the situation where it is the wrong call — built on extension-service clearances rather than mood boards.

Maya Ellison
Maya Ellison

Design Editor·September 5, 2026·12 min read

A front garden bed of clipped evergreen domes, fountain grasses and low silver perennials in dark bark mulch, running alongside a pale sawn-stone path, with only the base of a brick wall and one doorstep visible above

The 10 front of house landscaping ideas that hold up are foundation planting set 3 to 5 feet off the wall, a walk at least 4½ feet wide, layered beds with one repeated shrub, a single small tree, evergreen winter structure, lit approach, lawn replaced with low planting, screened bins, a framed entry, and concentrated seasonal colour. AI Landscape Design renders them on your own frontage.

We make AI Landscape Design, so read the render suggestions with that in mind. It cannot measure your frontage, locate a buried service or price a stone walk, and this post says where it stops.

This is a browse-and-choose post for someone standing at the curb, not a construction spec. Every clearance comes from a university extension service and every dollar figure from the National Association of REALTORS® 2023 outdoor remodeling survey. Ideas are ordered roughly by how much difference they make per dollar. If you want the space-level brief instead, the front yard page covers it, and curb appeal covers the resale angle.

Set the foundation bed at mature width, not nursery width

A row of compact rounded evergreen shrubs planted with a visible gap of dark bark mulch between them and the base of a brick wall, low mounding perennials in front, and a cut edge against mown lawn
The gap between the shrubs and the brick is the whole idea. It is what stops this bed becoming a hedge against the siding in six years.

Almost every bad front bed is a good bed planted too close. Clemson's Home & Garden Information Center is unusually specific about it: shrubs that will pass 6 feet at maturity should sit so their foliage stays at least 5 feet from the wall, and shorter shrubs need at least 3 feet of clearance (Clemson HGIC). Mulch and ground cover should stop about 12 inches short of the foundation, because a continuous bridge of damp organic matter is how termites reach the structure.

Cost: this is the cheapest idea here, because it costs nothing extra at planting time. The same five shrubs go in, just further out.

What it needs: a bed 5 to 6 feet deep, which usually means taking a bite out of the lawn rather than widening a 2-foot strip.

When it is wrong: a frontage with less than 4 feet between wall and walk. There, use dwarf cultivars and accept a narrow bed rather than planting a full-size shrub you will be shearing flat by year four.

Download AI Landscape Design on iPhone or Android and photograph your frontage from the curb before you read on — the first 3 designs are free, and the ideas below are far easier to judge against your own house than against a stranger's.

Build a real walk, not a 3-foot concrete strip

A wide front garden path of large pale sawn-stone slabs with tight joints curving through planted beds, low mounding plants and clipped evergreen balls spilling over the stone edges, gravel verge held by brick edging
Wide enough for two people to arrive side by side, with the planting allowed to break the edge rather than stopping short of it.

The single most common front-of-house fault is a walk you cannot walk on together. Both Clemson and the NC State Extension Gardener Handbook put the minimum for a main entrance walk at 4½ feet — enough for two people side by side — with NC State recommending 4½ to 5 feet for the primary route and scaling secondary paths down to 2½ to 3 feet (NC State Extension).

Cost: the National Association of REALTORS® 2023 outdoor survey priced a package built around a natural flagstone front walk 3 feet wide by 30 feet long, plus two stone planters, five flowering shrubs, a 15-foot tree and bark mulch, at $9,000 from landscape professionals. Note that even their walk is narrower than the extension minimum.

What it needs: a straight or gently curved line that goes where people actually go. A curve added for looks gets cut across within a season.

When it is wrong: never, but widening an existing walk means rebuilding its base, so it is a demolition job, not a top-up.

Layer the beds and repeat one structural shrub

A deep front border in three tiers: tall grasses and a multi-stem shrub at the back, three matching rounded evergreen shrubs through the middle, and low silver and green mounding perennials at the front against a stone edge
Three tiers and one shrub repeated three times. The repetition is doing more work than any individual plant in the bed.

A front bed reads from the street at 30 feet and from a moving car at 30 miles an hour, which means it has to work as a pattern rather than as a plant collection. Two moves do it. First, three tiers: low mounding plants at the front edge, a middle tier at knee to waist height, and something tall enough to give the bed a back. NC State frames the same principle as low planting nearest the viewer increasing in size as it moves away.

Second, pick one structural shrub and repeat it at least three times along the frontage. Repetition is what makes a mixed bed look designed rather than accumulated.

Cost: this is a plant-selection decision, so it is free at design time and cheaper at purchase — buying three of one shrub usually beats buying three different ones.

When it is wrong: on a frontage under about 15 feet wide, three repeats crowd. Repeat twice, or repeat a container instead.

One small tree, placed to frame the door rather than hide it

A small multi-stem ornamental tree with an open canopy in a circular mulched bed at one side of a front lawn, its branches framing a view towards a softly blurred porch, with shade perennials around the base
Set to one side and off the sightline, so the canopy edges the view of the door instead of standing in front of it.

A front yard usually has room for exactly one tree, and where it goes matters more than what it is. NC State's guidance is to put tall trees in the back yard and medium or small ones at the sides and front, which keeps the house legible rather than screened. Stand at the curb, find the line from there to your front door, and plant clear of it — the canopy should edge that view, not block it. The same handbook notes that limbs over the roof shed litter into the gutters, which is a maintenance cost you inherit for decades.

Cost: NAR priced tree care — pruning and maintenance of existing trees, not planting — at $2,875, with REALTORS® estimating $2,500 of that recovered at resale.

When it is wrong: over a septic field, over a known service run, or within a canopy radius of the walk you just built. Contact 811 before you dig; it is free and it covers planting a tree (811).

Evergreen bones for the five months nothing flowers

A frosted front garden bed in winter: clipped evergreen box and yew domes holding the shape of the bed, a low hedge along the pavement edge, bare deciduous stems and rust-brown grass seed heads left standing
Mid winter, nothing in flower, and the bed still has a shape. That is what the evergreen framework is for.

The front of a house is the part of a garden you are contractually obliged to look at every single day, including the months when a perennial border is bare soil. So the rule that applies here and not in the back yard is that roughly a third to a half of the planting should hold its form in February.

That does not mean a row of conifers. It means clipped evergreen domes repeated through the bed, a low evergreen hedge holding the front edge, and deciduous grasses left standing rather than cut down in autumn so their seed heads carry the frost.

Cost: no premium over deciduous shrubs of the same size at purchase.

When it is wrong: a deeply shaded north-facing frontage where box and yew will thin out. Clemson notes that the north side of a house sees the coldest winter temperatures, and that plants under eaves with gutters get little or no rainfall — so a north wall bed usually needs irrigation as well as shade-tolerant choices.

Light the approach, not the house

A front path at dusk lit by short bollard lights and low step lights, warm pools of light on pale stone paving and the low planting either side, one small tree uplit against a deep blue twilight sky
Light on the ground people walk on and one tree uplit for depth. The wall itself stays dark.

Lighting is the idea that changes a frontage most for the least planting, and it is also the one most often done backwards. Floodlighting the wall flattens everything and dazzles anyone walking up. Lighting the walk surface, the step nosings and one tree gives depth, and the house reads as the dark shape behind the lit garden.

Cost: this is the expensive one. NAR priced a standard installation — a 600W transformer and 20 LED fixtures — at $6,800 from landscape professionals, and REALTORS® estimated only $4,000 recovered, a 59 percent return, the weakest of the front-of-house projects in that survey.

What it needs: a cable route planned before the beds are planted, and a transformer position near an outdoor outlet.

When it is wrong: a short, flat, already-lit approach from a streetlight. And solar stake lights are not a cheap version of this; they light themselves rather than the ground.

Swap the thirsty lawn strip for low planting

A narrow front strip between pavement and low wall planted with blue-green ornamental grasses, silver mounding shrubs, spreading thyme and sedum over gravel mulch with flat pale boulders set in, one small square of lawn remaining
The strip that was hardest to mow and quickest to burn out, replanted with drought-tolerant mounds over gravel.

The narrow band of grass between the walk and the property line is the worst-performing square footage on most frontages: awkward to mow, first to scorch, and irrigated at the same rate as the rest of the lawn. Replacing it with low drought-tolerant planting over gravel or bark removes a mowing job permanently.

The water case is real. EPA WaterSense puts residential outdoor water use in the United States at nearly 8 billion gallons a day, mainly for landscape irrigation, and notes the average household uses more water outdoors than showering and clothes washing combined (EPA WaterSense).

Cost: NAR's standard lawn care line — six seasonal fertilizer or weed-control applications on 5,000 square feet — came in at $415 a year, so this is a recurring saving rather than a one-off one.

When it is wrong: households with small children or a dog that needs somewhere to be. Keep a usable square of lawn and convert only the strip.

Screen the bins and meters without blocking access

A slatted timber screen with a hinged gate half hiding two wheeled bins and a grey utility meter box, a tall narrow evergreen and clipped hedging planted in front, gravel service strip leading to it from the driveway
Slatted rather than solid, gated rather than sealed, and with a gravel run wide enough to wheel a bin over.

Bins, meter boxes, downspouts and the outdoor faucet are the reason well-planted frontages still look untidy, and they are also the reason a lot of screening gets ripped out again within a year.

The constraint nobody mentions in inspiration photos: a utility meter has to stay readable and reachable by the utility, a downspout has to keep discharging clear of the foundation, and a bin has to be wheeled to the curb in the rain. So screen with a slatted panel and a gate rather than a solid box, and give it a hard service run — gravel or paving — wide enough for the bins, not grass that turns to mud.

Cost: no verified figure. Screening was not one of the projects priced in the NAR survey, and the consumer estimating sites that quote it block automated retrieval, so this post does not carry a number for it.

When it is wrong: in front of a gas meter or shutoff, where clearance rules apply. Check with your utility before you build.

Frame the entry with a matched pair

Two matched dark planters of clipped evergreen standing either side of the bottom of wide shallow stone steps, a climbing rose trained on wires to one side, and low flowering perennials tucked against the step edges
Symmetry at the door and looseness everywhere else. Two containers do the work a whole redesign is often asked to do.

The last 10 feet of the approach carries more visual weight than the rest of the frontage combined, because it is where everyone stops. The reliable move is symmetry: a matched pair of large containers at the foot of the steps, planted with something evergreen and clipped, plus one climber trained on wires beside the door.

Containers are also the fastest idea on this list to reverse. If you get the pair wrong you move them, which is not true of a shrub.

Cost: NAR's $9,000 landscape upgrade package included two stone planters, 6 feet by 2 feet each, alongside the walk and planting — planters were priced as part of the standard front-of-house package, not as an extra.

What it needs: containers big enough not to dry out weekly, and a watering habit, since a container by a wall under an eave gets almost no rain.

When it is wrong: an entry that is already crowded, or steps under 4 feet wide where a pair of pots becomes a trip hazard.

Concentrate the seasonal colour where it is seen

A tight dense drift of flowering perennials and bulbs in one deep bed beside the start of a path near the curb, with quieter green evergreen and grass planting continuing along the rest of the frontage
One saturated block at the point of arrival, and restraint everywhere else. Spreading the same plants thinly reads as nothing at all.

Flowers spread evenly across a frontage disappear. The same plants massed in one place — at the start of the walk, at the turn, or against the step — read from the street and give the whole garden a season.

Pick two moments rather than four: a spring bulb drift and a late-summer perennial block in the same bed will carry a frontage without demanding constant replanting. Everything else stays green.

Cost: NAR's landscape maintenance line — annual mulch, mowing 2,835 square feet, pruning shrubs and planting about 60 perennials or annuals — came in at $4,800 a year from landscape professionals, with REALTORS® estimating $5,000 recovered. That 60-plant figure is a useful benchmark for how many it takes to register.

When it is wrong: a frontage in deep shade, or a household that will not water in August. Then use foliage contrast — silver, blue-green, dark purple — and skip flowers entirely. AI Landscape Design will render both versions from the same photo so you can see the difference before buying anything.

Front-of-house projects priced by landscape professionals, with the resale value REALTORS® estimated. Figures are national aggregates from the 2023 survey; every project definition is the survey's own. Screening, edging and bed widening were not priced in this survey and are not estimated here.

Project (as defined in the survey)Landscape pros' cost estimateValue recoveredRecovery
Standard lawn care service — six seasonal fertilizer/weed applications on 5,000 sq ft$415$900217%
Landscape maintenance — mulch, mowing 2,835 sq ft, pruning, ~60 perennials or annuals$4,800$5,000104%
Overall landscape upgrade — 3 ft × 30 ft flagstone walk, two planters, five shrubs, one 15 ft tree, mulch$9,000$9,000100%
Tree care$2,875$2,50087%
Landscape lighting — 600W transformer and 20 LED fixtures$6,800$4,00059%

Source: NAR, 2023 Remodeling Impact Report: Outdoor Features

How far a foundation shrub should sit from the wall, by its mature height rather than its size in the pot.

Mature height of shrubMinimum clearance to the wallPractical bed depth
Over 6 ft5 ft to the foliage6 ft or more
Under 6 ft3 ft to the foliage4 to 5 ft
Ground cover and mulchStop 12 in short of the foundationn/a

Source: Clemson HGIC, Foundation Plantings

Key takeaways

  • Shrubs over 6 ft at maturity belong 5 ft off the wall; shorter ones need 3 ft.
  • A main entrance walk should be at least 4½ feet wide so two people fit side by side.
  • Landscape lighting returned only 59 percent at resale — the weakest front-of-house project surveyed.
  • Standard lawn care on 5,000 sq ft cost $415 a year and returned 217 percent.
  • Repeat one structural shrub three times; a mixed bed of singles reads as clutter from the curb.
  • Keep mulch and ground cover 12 inches clear of the foundation to avoid a termite bridge.

Frequently asked questions

What is the cheapest way to improve the front of my house?

Widening the existing bed and moving the shrubs to their correct clearance costs nothing but labour, and it fixes the fault that makes most frontages look wrong. After that, standard lawn care was the cheapest project in the 2023 NAR outdoor survey at $415 a year, and the highest returning at 217 percent of cost recovered.

How far from the house should I plant shrubs?

Clemson's Home & Garden Information Center recommends that shrubs reaching more than 6 feet at maturity be placed so their foliage stays at least 5 feet from the wall, and that shorter shrubs get at least 3 feet of clearance. Ground cover and organic mulch should stop about 12 inches short of the foundation so damp material does not bridge to the structure.

How wide should a front walkway be?

At least 4½ feet. Both Clemson and the NC State Extension Gardener Handbook use that figure as the minimum for a main entrance walk, on the grounds that two people should be able to walk up side by side. NC State suggests 4½ to 5 feet for the primary route, with secondary paths scaling down to 2½ to 3 feet.

What should I plant on a north-facing frontage?

Shade-tolerant plants that also handle cold and dryness. Clemson notes the north side of a house sees the coldest winter temperatures, and that anything under an eave with gutters gets little or no rainfall, so irrigation is usually needed. Full sun means six hours of direct light or more; under two hours puts you firmly in shade planting.

Can I see landscaping ideas on my own house before I buy plants?

Yes. Photograph the frontage from the curb and run it through AI Landscape Design, which redesigns the yard in 18 styles while leaving the house itself in place. It is a look test, not a plan: it will not measure your bed depth, locate a buried service or price a stone walk, so treat the output as a shortlist rather than a specification.

Why do so many foundation plantings end up covering the windows?

Because shrubs are bought at pot size and planted at pot spacing. Clemson's advice is blunt about it — know the ultimate size of a plant and do not use tall plants where they will eventually cover windows. A bed that looks sparse in year one is a bed that will look correct in year six, which is the trade most people get backwards.

How many plants does it take to make a difference out front?

More than most people buy. The NAR survey's landscape maintenance project, which included planting roughly 60 perennials or annuals alongside mulch and pruning on a typical lot, is a reasonable benchmark for a frontage that reads as planted rather than dotted. Massing those 60 in two places beats spreading them evenly along the whole front.

Which of these to do first

Fix the bed depth and the walk width before spending on anything else. Those two decide whether every later plant looks deliberate, they are the cheapest items here, and they are the two that are painful to retrofit. Lighting is genuinely transformative and genuinely the worst financial return in the survey, so do it because you want it, not for resale.

  1. Photograph the frontage from the curb, then open AI Landscape Design and render three directions before buying a plant.
  2. Measure the gap between the wall and the walk, and set your shrub clearances from the table above.
  3. Widen the entrance walk to 4½ feet if it is narrower, since that rebuild has to happen before planting.
  4. Choose one structural shrub, buy three of it, and put the seasonal colour in one place only.

The first 3 designs in AI Landscape Design are free, on iPhone and Android.

See these ideas on your own frontage

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Sources